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Half the pleasure of a visit to Big Bend National Park, as in certain other affairs, lies in the advance upon the object of our desire. ~ Edward Abbey

As dawn greeted us on 27 November 2009, we left the motel we overnight (Highland Inn) in Alpine. We stopped by at Alpine McDonald restaurant to quickly grab a cup of coffee to go. Back to our car and our journey to Big National Park began. We took State Highway 118 heading south to Study Butte (pronounced as 'stoodybyoot' though!). This route is also part of the scenic 'Texas Mountain Trail'.

In less than half an hour, the day was getting brighter. Sun light was peeping through the clouds which did not give a prominent sunrise. The road condition is excellent although it is obviously remote. We hardly saw any vehicles on the road. Less than a handful shelters or houses seen across the cacti land. The Chihuahuan desert land is almost flat in the middle of our journey. Far away at horizon, there are mountain ranges. Some stand alone as single peak but most are clustered. If I were to shout my heart out, I bet nobody is going to hear me. Only the cacti and wild non-homosapiens perhaps!



There was a moderate gradient on the road as we were getting near to Study Butte . Terlingua Post indicated we were getting near to civilization. After two hours, our journey from Alpine to Study Butte arrived at an intersection. Turning right into State Highway 170 would lead us to Terlingua whilst the road ahead would take us to the west entrance of Big Bend National Park.


We made a right turn to Terlingua Ghost Town which is located 5 miles away from this junction to check out El Dorado Motel, the venue which we planned to overnight. Quiet and no one at sight. Guess we arrived rather early. I was trying to console myself. As we approached the reception building, there was also no sign of any single soul. In fact, the premise was locked. Guess our adventure had began!




Terlingua is a mercury rush town that boomed in late 1800s and early 1900s. Before that, this area was inhabited by Mexican herders and Indians. After the quicksilver mining operation declined (million dollars quicksilver was marketed), Terlingua was left with hundreds of roofless adobe buildings and shabby shacks until lately, it was developed as leisure homes, motel-type lodgings, souvenir stores, grocery shops and restaurants. Population is estimated 250.


Getting back on our itinerary, our mission was to unfold the mystery of Big Bend National Park or famously known as 'Three Parks in One'. To explore the river, mountain and desert all at once. I felt the blood rush. Excitement! Exhilaration!

Ten minutes later, we reached the park's entrance station near Maverick Junction. Paid 20 bucks in cash (USD20) and we possessed the license to access Big Bend for the next 7 days! Hooray! Finally we were on the 'unknown land' to unlock its secrets!


By the way, the maximum speed limit in Big Bend National Park is 45 mph. To us, this is an edge so that we could cruise and enjoy the stunning view. Although most portion of road is a two-lane of two-way traffic, there are several stop areas and you would be alerted with signs like 'Exhibit Ahead' or 'Scenic Overlook'.

The park's Headquarters cum Visitors Center is located at Panther Junction which is 23 miles away from Maverick Junction. This was the spot where our feet first stepped on the soil of Big Bend National Park.

Getting to Big Bend National Park?
North entrance near Persimmon Gap is accessible via Marathon on U.S. Hwy 385 south.
West entrance near Maverick Junction is accessible via Alpine and Study Butte on Texas State Hwy 118 south.
Website: http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/directions.htm

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